Cameroons West: Foumban and the Bamiléké Chefferies

Some 70 km north-east of Bafoussam, Foumban, a  prRoyal palace of the Bamoun in Foumbanedominantly Muslim town, is over 1.000 metres above sea level and is one of Cameroun´s major tourist attractions. Here you can see the unusual royal palace of the Bamoun displaying the personal belongings of 18 consecutive royal dynasties dating back to the 14th century. This is quite unusual in an area of the world where some countries, such as Gabon, have virtually no recorded history prior to the colonial area. The present sultan, Seidou Njimoluh Njoya, is the 18th king of a line dating back to 1394. The 16th sultan and the most faMarket in Foumbanmous, Ibrahim Njoya, envious of the German governor´s palace in Buea, built his own. Completed in 1917, this unique palace looks like a mediaval chateau, with a vast, impressive hall of arms on the 1st floor. On the 2nd floor there is a museum containing a multitude of objects belonging to the previous sultans, including colourful royal gowns, arms, musical instruments, war garments, statues, jewellery, books written by Njoya, dancing masks, and thrones decorated with beads. Foumban has as well a very lively and colourful market.

The Bamiléké, centred around Bafoussam, are the most populous group in the western highlands. As so many have migrated to Douala they do now constitute over a thChefferie Banaird of the city´s inhabitants, more than the city´s original inhabitants, the Douala. Forming a middle class of transport entrepreneurs and heavily involved in the import-export business, the Bamiléké control the city´s economy. I made some personal empirical research confirming this. My boss was Bamiléké, as well as all the other people employed by him at Fidex. All his clients (bosses and staff) were Bamiléké, too. Only this can be explained as well by the fact that in Africa most people prefer their own tribe, so it is to be expected that a Bamiléké will only do business with other Bamilékés.

In their homeland the Bamiléké show a strong sense of tradition and a complex sociopolitical structure centred on independent chiefdoms. Unlike the Bamoun, who give allegiance to a single person, the sultan, the Bamiléké have about 80 chefferies, each strongly independent and very hierarchical.  Below the fon is a council of dignitaries called the mkem and each member has responsibility for a secred society, such as the kamveu, which in turn is responsible for preserving the rituals. You can see these Chefferies in the highlands, the one in Bandjoun being the most impressive chief´s compoChefferie Bandjounund in Central Africa and the best example in western Cameroun of Bamiléké architecture: huge huts of bamboo with straw roofs supported by tall carved pillars, like totem poles, with elaborate, carved doorways and walls with geometrical designs. The overall sight is so impressive because the buildings are so much larger than normal African huts, and the sheer number of buildings gives the place a certain grandeur.

The main building was constructed in 1962 (the previous one burned down in 1958) and is essentially a huge meeting room, used every six months. Most of the other buildings are either granaries or houses of the chief´s family members, and quite a family the chief has - 10 wives and 17 children (information dating form 1994), which is nothing compared to that of the previous chief, who had far more wives and almost 250 children! The many houses of his brothers´ and fathers´ wives are easily distinguished by their aluminium roofs.